Life on the frozen-food-tasting line
Matthew, an odd-jobbing freelance artist, took a job as a frozen-food
taster ("trained sensory panelist"), spending long days stuffing fried
food in his mouth and rating it on 50-100 attributes, swirling mashed
potatoes around his mouth, getting mouth-blisters from all the salt. If
you've ever wondered how frozen food manufacturers decide how much
cardboard taste is too much, here is your answer:
Matthew: I’d come home with huge blisters in my mouth from the salt.
Yeah, fried food doesn’t have the same appeal anymore. And the other
amazing thing is seeing the whole world behind literally every product
we consume. Every aspect of the foods, taste, appearance, texture, is so
insanely focus grouped and tested. Every major food company has a
similar testing process.
Mike: Does this mean you were eating many different versions of the same curly fry?
Matthew: Yes, there’d be slight variations in spices, in cooking time,
in the kind of potato. We’d test them at different intervals to see how
the taste changed once they were taken out of the fryer, or how
micro-waving them would affect their texture. One aromatic that was fun
to pick out was “cardboard”—an actual aromatic on the ballot—and to
compare we had cups of water with brown paper towels in them.
Matthew: Oh, and another weird thing I learned: To cut corners with
cheese products companies sometimes use the acids from cheese production
instead of the more expensive cheese products, and these acids are
basically bile from different animals (a food scientist might have a
more nuanced view). So sometimes we’d be spitting out these inexpensive
cheese products all day, and your mouth would just be full of this vomit
bile taste.
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