
It’s
been several years since Mike Hiller has seen a real summer. From
November to April, he lives inHomer, Alaska. Then he travels to the
opposite end of the earth to cook for the 18 or so scientists who
overwinter at Palmer Station in Antarctica. Hiller is responsible for
keeping the crew fed without driving them to mutiny.
The
biggest challenge isn’t cooking and living on an isolated chunk of land
in the middle of the Southern Ocean—it’s the fact that Hiller can only
put in a single food order at the start of the season. Fresh fruit and
vegetables, or “freshies,” are fleeting and eventually fantasized about.
“Two
months in, it’s nearly all gone,” Hiller tells me. “I can hold some
cabbage back if I’m lucky, maybe some apples or some carrots. Even if
the budget was a million dollars, you can’t order four months of
produce. Tomatoes don’t last that long.”
After the last of the
mango cilantro salsa is lapped up, it’s up to Hiller to fight against
beige-plate syndrome—to create meals that entertain, boost morale, and
hold up on a buffet line.
But he manages to do it,
six days a week all winter (they eat leftovers on his day off). Plus he
puts on a special feast for the Winter Solstice, the most important
feast in Antarctica.
Read how he does it at Lucky Peach.
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